Frolicking Around Bilbao and Basque Country

If you want to get away from the city life and want to do some hiking, Basque country is the place to be. I found countless parks and waterfall hikes that was worth visiting but unfortunately due to time constraints and transport limitations, I was unable to explore them. This is where renting a car would help as it appears the buses do not really extend past the bigger towns. If a car is within a budget, the Salto del Nervion would be worth hiking to because there is an absolute breathtaking view of a valley and I will definitely go the next time I'm in Basque Country.

Do not fret, however. If renting a car is out of the question, San Juan Gaztelugatxe is one option you should consider, especially for you Game of Thrones fans out there. Before being used as the CGI version of Dragonstone, this area has seen its fair share of hostility from multiple fires and an assault from the English troops during the Spanish Civil War. There is a small church atop of this islet, which is connected to the mainland by a man-made bridge. Take your time and admire the breathtaking views as you make your way across the bridge. Only 231 steps of stairs remain between you and the top of the islet. When you make your way up, be sure to ring the bell 3 times for good luck!

Because it was November, I did not have the luxury of sunny skies and good weather to hike in. It was cloudy and on the brink of sparse rain here and there. But my photos did come out very moody especially when the sun peaked out from the clouds, creating several beautiful sunrays.

How do I get to San Juan Gaztelugatxe?

If you’re leaving from Bilbao, the journey starts right at the Moyua Plaza. Be on the lookout for the A3518 green bus that will take you to Bakio. This bus runs only once every hour, so plan accordingly, both for getting there and back. Once you hop off at the very last stop, stay on your left and find the paved, single-lane road. If you have access to a map on your phone, this is the Gibelorratzagako San Pelaio Auzoa road. Stay on this path for ~2 miles until see an area with some restaurants and a parking lot. You should be able to see some wooden plaques with the name San Juan Gaztelugatxe etched into it.

As I pointed out in the last paragraph, the one concern is that the bus back to Bilbao runs every hour, so be mindful of the hike back to the bus stop. Better to get there early and wait instead of getting there late, missing the bus, and wait another hour at the bus stop. It took me 45 minutes to get to the parking lot and 30-40 minutes to the bus stop. I jogged part of my way back to ensure that I don’t miss the bus.

Bilbao Food

Bilbao and the greater Basque country area are known for their pintxos (small plates), ham, and seafood. The bacalao (cod fish) I had from a restaurant was super flavorful and cooked to perfection. While reading up on the cuisine, I noticed that there are a ton of places for people on a budget, but there are also numerous highly rated, Michelin-starred restaurants in the area. I was genuinely surprised at how many there were in Basque Country (~40 restaurants!). It is one of the best fine dining experiences in the world, and unfortunately quite out of my budget, but I did go to a restaurant called La Viña Del Ensanche. Located just a few blocks from Moyua Plaza, I treated myself to this pintxos bar after my hike.

For the folks that want to venture out and can spend a little bit more on food, allocate a day or two for a town called Donostia-San Sebastian. This town has the most Michelin-starred restaurants relative to how small the town is. This is the one town I would like to visit if I ever go back to Basque Country.

Half an evening in Bilbao

I must admit, the rain did put a damper on my plan to comfortably walk around with my camera. If you visit Basque Country, having a rain jacket is mandatory, as it rains a lot throughout the year and its cloudy on most days. I spent most of my time walking along the Estuary of Bilbao, where the Guggenheim Museum is. In front of the museum is a 43-foot flower-covered sculpture of a terrier puppy that makes a great photo op. Walk north and cross the river for a spectacular view of the museum and the luscious shrubbery in the surrounding area.

Lodging

I stayed at the Ganbara hostel due to their high ratings on Hostelworld, It was ~$20 per night and close to the train stop. The other hostel options had mediocre reviews while others were at least $50 a night. I was not a fan of Ganbara as the beds were way too soft to my liking and the bunk beds did not have any private screens, but because it was low season, I mostly had the 8-bedroom to myself. Not the best hostel experience but it did its job.

Final Thoughts

I would say my Bilbao experience was incomplete since I used up a full day to explore San Juan Gaztelugatxe and the remainder of my time walking around Bilbao after my late lunch. If I had a few extra days, I would take the bus out to San Sebastian, find more sightseeing places in Bilbao, and perhaps even go on a forest hike. I relied on my phone for directions as people here speak Basque as well as Spanish, and certain signs in Bilbao did not have any Spanish on it. I can tell you Basque words look nothing like the Spanish counterpart, so be more prepared as there may be a bigger language barrier.